After the previous day’s deluge, there was a great deal of discussion amongst the randonneurs at breakfast at L’Hotel de Grand’Halte about the present day’s forecast and strategies for reaching Chasseradès as dry as possible. Today would be the shortest of the eleven stages. It was raining pretty heavily at breakfast and despite the opinion of some who predicted a dry and even sunny afternoon, we felt that the sooner we set off, the sooner we would arrive at our destination allowing maximum time for further drying of our gear. This plan was reinforced by a suggestion from Jane (of the Clark family from Perth) to arrive at Chasseradès in time for lunch. The booking was made – we had to get there for 12.30p.m. to claim our table!

We set out at half past eight – on the previous day we walked into La-Bastide-Puylaurent in heavy rain; now we were leaving in similar conditions. So, unfortunately, we can’t say that we saw much of the town. Again we crossed the railway line, this time via the official deviation. No point in pushing our luck.

Our walk started in earnest as we climbed away from La Bastide up to a local beauty spot – La Mourade. And I’m sure that in better weather it would be quite a vantage point with great views! From here we headed west over a plateau dominated by lines of wind turbines. The rain at this juncture was just drizzle and not before very long it had settled into a light drizzle. And by the time we started to descend from the plateau, the rain had stopped altogether. The paths however were awash following the previous day’s excesses. Many puddles required significant detours and where the path found an incline, rivulets formed.

As the terrain flattened out, we came upon the sparse but charming village of Charbier and here the path took us over the Allier. From here, it was a comfortable couple of kilometres to Chasseradès. We were staying the night at the Hotel des Sources, and this was where our lunch was booked. The day’s walk had been but eight miles, and we comfortably complied with le patron’s deadline.

So we ate our lunch with the luxury of having our feet under a table. In the afternoon, whilst our clothes were drying (good facilities here at Hotel des Sources!), we wandered into the village. Chasseradès isn’t a pretty village – it doesn’t appear to aspire to daintiness. But it definitely has its charm. The church is somehow typical of the village – St. Blaise is stolid with a simple beauty. It’s vaulted ceilings of stone and mortar is wonderful.

Back at Hotel des Sources, we ate our second substantial meal of the day – a rare occurrence but we felt that our exploits over the previous few days justified a bit of calorific catch up. The fare was unfussy but very tasty; the service was friendly and efficient.

And what of the morrow? The weather forecast remained bleak. Le patron at the hotel said that sunshine was on its way but that it was taking its time. As for the walk, it looked very much like the highlight of the day would declare itself within the first few hundred metres.