We were up early for breakfast – 13 miles today, with rain predicted from mid-afternoon. So we were on our way before 9 o’clock, walking through Warkworth on a bright, chilly morning. We popped into the village shop, but as on the previous morning there wasn’t a Guardian and the sandwiches on offer looked forlorn. We left the village by the old 14th century bridge. It was in full operation until 1965 when a parallel modern version was opened.
We took to the coast, and slipped through the dunes to the beautiful beach. The tide was quite high, and although we walked as close as possible to the sea, the sand was soft and progress was sluggish. A gentleman of about our age was energetically walking his dog. Indeed, the dog seemed to be struggling to keep pace with him! He stopped to allow us to catch up for a chat, and he advised us that the tide was too high to walk around the approaching headland at Birling Carrs, and that we should follow him to regain the NCP coursing through the dunes and coastline. This seemed prudent!
Our pace picked up away from the sand, but soon we were having to leave the dunes to head inland on a significant detour to cross the River Aln. This entailed moving inland to gain access to a cycle track which ran parallel initially with the A1068 and then the B1338, which led us over the bridge. It was but a short stroll by the Aln to reach the village of Alnmouth.
It was time to sit down and have a drink, and we went into the cosy-looking Village Tea Rooms. On enquiring about their conveniences, we were told that they were not in use. After a detour to the Alnmouth’s public loos, we decided to take our chances with Scott’s on the other side of the main street. We bought sandwiches for lunch later on and coffees to take away. The man and woman working in the establishment were surliness personified. We sat on a bench in Northumberland Street and discussed the fact that although Alnmouth is very endearing to the eye with most buildings made of local stone and the village commanding a beautiful spot where its river meets the North Sea, our initial impressions were not positive. But the coffee was very good. Time to move on.
We climbed out of the village to follow a permissive path through a golf course. Poor old Alnmouth is blighted by two courses: Alnmouth Village GC, which sits between the village and its beach, and Alnmouth GC, up above the village to the north, and across which we were hiking whilst keeping eyes and ears open for stray golf balls. Having cleared the golf course, we were denied a view from Seaton Point by caravans occupying the promontory, and walkers were not permitted! But there was an enjoyable romp through the grassy shoreline up to Boulmer, an unspoilt hamlet with plenty of benches allowing rest and sustenance. Sure enough the cheese and pickle butties bought in Alnmouth were excellent. The one problem with Boulmer is a lack of public loos. So we popped in to The Fishing Boat Inn to use their facilities, paying for the privilege with a couple of swift halves. It seemed to be a choice spot with its dining room commanding magnificent views over the Boulmer coast.
The walk north from Boulmer followed the contours of this magical coast – Howdiemont Sands, Sugars Sands, Howick Haven – passed in quick succession. The weather forecast had predicted rain for later in the afternoon and so we were picking up speed to arrive in Craster whilst dry. We almost made it – stopping to put on anoraks as we rounded Cullernose Point. By the time we reached Craster just ten minutes later, the rain had stopped. The village café was closed so we had a hot drink at The Jolly Fisherman Inn, heaving even though it was but four o’clock.
We were staying about half-a-mile inland at a small village. The Cottage Inn at Dunstan was welcoming, comfortable and clean. We ate in its palatial hall decorated with murals depicting Harry Hotspur, son of the first Earl of Northumberland; and although his exploits took place over 600 years ago, he remains a local hero. The Cottage Inn was very popular on this Friday night. And no wonder: the service was cheerful and informative and the fare was enjoyable and reasonably priced.
